Archive for January, 2014

COYOTE HAZING GUIDELINES:

How to Haze for Effective Reshaping of Coyote Behavior

Generally, coyotes are reclusive animals who avoid human contact. Coyotes who’ve adapted to urban and suburban environments, however, may realize there are few real threats and approach people or feel safe visiting yards even when people are present. These coyotes have become habituated (lost their fear of humans), likely due to the ready availability of food in our neighborhoods. Sometimes, this food is deliberately provided by people who like to watch wild animals or misguidedly feel they are helping them by feeding. These bold coyotes should not be tolerated or enticed, but definitely given the message that they should not be so brazen.

Hazing is a method that makes use of deterrents to move an animal out of an area or discourage an undesirable behavior or activity. Hazing can help maintain a coyote’s fear of humans and deter them from neighborhood spaces such as backyards and play spaces.

Methods of Hazing include:

Using a variety of different hazing tools is critical; coyotes can habituate to individual items, sounds, and actions.

• Yelling and waving your arms while approaching the coyote

• Noisemakers: Voice, whistles, air horns, bells, soda cans filled with pennies or dead batteries, pots and pans banged together

• Projectiles: sticks, small rocks, cans, tennis balls, rubber balls
• Other: hoses, water guns with vinegar water, spray bottles with vinegar water, pepper spray, bear repellant, walking sticks

“Go Away Coyote!”

The simplest method of hazing a coyote involves being loud and large:

o Stand tall, wave your arms and yell at the coyote, approaching it if necessary, until it runs away.

o Follow this link for a demonstration:

• If a coyote has not been hazed before, he may not immediately run away when you yell at him. If this happens, you may need to walk towards the coyote and increase the intensity of your hazing.
• The coyote may run away, but then stop after a distance and look at you. It is important to continue to haze the coyote until he completely leaves the area. You may need to use different tactics, such as noisemakers, stomping your feet, or spraying the coyote with a hose, to get him to leave.

Dog-walking Tools

• There are several tools that you can carry with you while walking your dog that can be used to repel coyotes. (Remember to always walk your dog on a leash.) These include:

o Homemade noisemakers(followthislinkfor“recipe”): http://www.stanleyparkecology.ca/programs/conservation/urbanWildlife/coyot es/deterrent.php

o Whistle or small air horn (you can purchase small air horn “necklaces”)

o Squirtguns
o Pepper spray
o Pick up sticks or rocks and throw them towards the coyote

In Your Yard:

Remember, keeping pets and pet food inside is the best way to keep coyotes out of your yard. If you do encounter coyotes, all of the above methods can be used in your yard at home. First, try the “Go Away Coyote!” method (yell and wave your arms as you approach the coyote). Here are some additional methods you can also use:

• Squirt the coyote with your garden hose

• Bang pots and pans together

Remember:

• NEVER run away from a coyote!
• The coyote may not leave at first, but if you approach itcloser and/or increase the intensity of your hazing, it willrun away.
• If the coyote runs away a short distance and then stopsand looks at you, continue hazing it until it completelyleaves the area.
• After you have successfully hazed a coyote, he or she mayreturn again. Continue to haze the coyote as you did before; it usually takes only one or two times to haze a coyote away for good.

• Coyotes are skittish by nature and as a rule do not act aggressively towards aggressive people. However, engaging animals that are sick or injured can result in unpredictable behavior. If you suspect that a coyote is sick or injured, contact the proper authorities and DO NOT interact with the coyote.

Tips for Success:

• The more often an individual coyote is hazed, by a variety of tools and techniques and a variety of people, the more effective hazing will be for changing behavior.
• The coyote being hazed must be able to recognize that the potential threat is coming from a person. (Hiding behind a bush and throwing rocks, for example, will not be effective.)
• Techniques and tools can be used in the same manner for one animal or multiple animals. Usually there is a dominant animal in the group who will respond, and others will follow her lead.
• Certain levels of hazing must always be maintained so that future generations of coyotes do not learn or return to unacceptable habits or behaviors.
• Educating the public about removing coyote attractants, proper pet care and safety, and coyote behavior are critical parts of a successful coyote plan.

For more information and tips, see our website: www.humanesociety.org/animals/coyotes

MANAGING COYOTE PROBLEMS

Coyotes (Canis latrans) are found throughout most of California. The California Department of Fish and Wildlife estimates a population range of 250,000 to 750,000 animals. Coyotes are very adaptable and inhabit most areas of the state with the exception of the centers of major metropolitan areas. They are medium sized animals belonging to the dog family. Most adults weigh between 22 and 25 pounds on the average, with males being the larger sex. With large erect ears, slender muzzle and bushy tail, they resemble a small collie dog. In the hotter, drier regions of California, coyotes are tan-brown in color with streaks of gray. In the more mountainous or humid areas, the color is darker with less brown. In the winter, the coats become quite dense, especially in the colder areas. The voice of the coyote is quite distinctive, consisting of various howls, high-pitched yaps and occasional dog-like barks. Coyotes are proficient predators, possessing the speed, strength and endurance necessary to tackle prey as large as adult deer.

BIOLOGY

In California, coyotes breed mainly during January, February and March. The gestation period is about 60-63 days. Young are born March through May, with litter sizes averaging 5-6 pups. Coyotes produce one litter per year. The young are weaned at 5-6 weeks and leave the parents at 6-9 months. Most adults breed first in their second year. Non-breeding, yearling coyotes often stay with the adult parents and help care for the pups. Coyote dens are found in steep banks, rock crevices, sinkholes and underbrush. Coyote dens are often holes that have been used by badgers, skunks, foxes or other animals with entrances enlarged to about one foot in diameter. Dens vary from 4-5 feet deep to 50 feet deep. The diet of the coyote consists mainly of mice, rats, ground squirrels, gophers, rabbits and carrion. They also eat insects, reptiles, amphibians, fruits, birds and their eggs, and deer fawns. In some rural areas of California, they prey heavily on sheep, cattle and poultry. In urban and suburban areas, garbage, domestic cats and dogs, other pets, hobby animals and pet food can be important food items. Coyotes are most active at

night and during the early morning and late evening hours. In areas where they are not disturbed by human activities, and during the cooler times of the year, they may be active throughout the day. Urban coyotes are becoming very tolerant of human activities. Young coyotes tend to be more active during daylight hours than adults.

DAMAGE

Coyotes can cause substantial damage. In rural areas they oftentimes kill sheep, calves and poultry. In some parts of the state they cause damage to drip irrigation systems by biting holes in the pipe. In other areas they cause considerable damage to watermelons, citrus fruits and avocados. Aircraft safety is often jeopardized when coyotes take up residence on or near runways. Coyotes have also been known to prey on various endangered/threatened species including the San Joaquin kit fox and the California least tern. In urban and suburban areas, coyotes commonly take domestic house cats, small dogs, poultry and other domestic animals. Coyotes have been known to attack humans.

DISEASE

Distemper and canine hepatitis are among the most common diseases of coyotes. Rabies and tularemia also occur and may be transmitted to humans and other animals. Coyotes often carry parasites, including mites, ticks, fleas, worms and flukes. Mites, which cause sarcoptic mange, are an important ectoparasite of coyotes. Heartworm is one of the most important endoparasites in California’s coyote population. This parasite can be transmitted to domestic dogs by mosquitoes.

PROBLEM PREVENTION

Coyotes are attracted to urban/suburban areas by the easy accessibility of food, water and shelter. Reducing or eliminating the availability of these elements will often encourage coyotes to leave. Garbage can lids should be secured at all times or garbage stored indoors. Pets should be fed during daylight hours and all pet food removed before darkness. Water bowls should be emptied and not left out after dark. Ripe fruits and vegetables should be covered at night or the garden/fruit trees enclosed by a coyote-proof fence to prevent access by hungry coyotes. All windfall fruit/vegetables should be picked up daily. In areas where predation on pets has been documented, cats and small dogs should not be left out after dark unless enclosed in a coyote-proof enclosure. Food should never intentionally be left out for wild mammals. In suburban areas where livestock such as lambs, piglets, calves or poultry are raised and coyote predation has been documented, precautions should be taken to prevent further losses.

To exclude coyotes, fences should be constructed which are at least 5 1⁄2 feet tall. These can be made of solid wood, cement blocks, brick or wire. If net wire fencing is used, the bottom portion should be at least 3 1⁄2 feet tall with squares smaller than 6 inches. If high tensile fence is used, it should be electrified with a fence charger to prevent coyotes from going through. All fences should have some sort of galvanized wire apron buried at least 4 to 6 inches in the ground, which extends out from the fence at least 15 to 20 inches. The apron should be securely attached to the bottom of the fence. Coyotes are very adept diggers and prefer to dig under fences rather than jump them.

Brush and vegetation should be cleared from backyards and adjacent areas to eliminate habitat for prey, which could attract coyotes. Landscaping should be pruned on a regular basis. These actions also remove hiding cover used by coyotes to stalk domestic pets. If cats cannot be contained indoors, and predation is viewed as a problem, posts can be installed in open space areas, which provide an escape for the cats. These posts should be at least 7 feet tall, made of material that the cat can climb, and have enough space on top for the cat to sit.

During the time of the year when adult coyotes are caring for young (May-September), they can be very aggressive when their young are threatened. Domestic dogs are especially vulnerable to attack during this time. Even dogs on leashes have been attacked when they got too close to a family of coyotes. In urban settings where a den site has been identified, caution should be taken to keep dogs out of the area. These areas should be posted with signs, and people concerned about attacks on their dogs should avoid the area. Increased predation on domestic pets can be expected around den sites, and extra precautions should be taken by residents to protect valued domestic cats or small dogs.

LAWS AND REGULATIONS

California Department of Fish and Wildlife regulations prohibit the relocation of coyotes without written permission from the Department. For further information on the legal status of coyotes and other wildlife, contact your local California Department of Fish and Wildlife Regional Office.

FOR MORE INFORMATION, PLEASE CONTACT THE ANIMAL CARE CENTER CLOSEST TO YOU:

http://animalcare.lacounty.gov